Masca: The Hidden Village at the Edge of Tenerife’s Mountains

From sleepy mornings to the dizzy roads of Masca, from hidden villages to sushi and cocktails at Kyomu—our Tenerife day ticked every box.

• Beach Vibes, Pulled Chicken, and the Perfect Start in Los Cristianos
• Roundabouts, Rodeos, and the Road to Los Gigantes
• Los Gigantes – where the ocean meets the giants
• One Wrong Move and It’s the Atlantic: Our Road to Masca
• Masca – Tenerife’s Hidden Gem
• So what can you do in Masca, Tenerife?
• Exploring Masca – The Hidden Village in the Mountains
• The Road Back from Masca – With Spotify as Co-Pilot
• After the Masca Adventure: A Night of Food & Cheers in Playa de las Américas

This day started with a well-deserved sleep-in. A little worn out from the night before – and still carrying the afterglow of the San Juan celebrations – we woke up later than usual.

By the time we finally ventured out, lunch was calling. We headed to Casa Playa in Los Cristianos, a charming spot tucked at the end of the promenade. I love this place because it delivers pure beach vibes: you’re practically dipping your toes in the sand while placing your order. The atmosphere is laid-back yet stylish – perfect if you want sea views and good food without the fuss of dressing up.

Here is a picture of Erika waiting for the food.

We went for tacos filled with slow-cooked, marinated pulled chicken, topped with fresh pico de gallo (tomato, onion, coriander, and lime) and a touch of pickled red onion. The cute little tacos came on soft tortillas with a lime wedge on the side – ready to be squeezed over for that extra zing. Classic Mexican street food, and absolutely delicious. 🌮✨'

These tacos didn’t last long… but at least I took a picture first.

After lunch, we sat and talked about what the next step of the day should be. We had already been considering renting a car for a few days during our stay on Tenerife – and today felt like the perfect day to make it happen.

We had already done a bit of research before the trip and found a company called CICAR – short for Canary Islands Car. According to the reviews online, they were one of the most reliable rental agencies on the islands: fair prices, good insurance included, and no hidden “surprise fees” waiting to ruin your holiday mood.

According to Google Maps, the CICAR office was located down by the harbor – which, in hindsight, made our choice of Casa Playa for lunch look anything but accidental. The restaurant sits just a stone’s throw from the rental desk, so it felt like we had set ourselves up perfectly: tacos first, car keys after. Sometimes the best travel plans are the ones that look spontaneous but turn out suspiciously well-timed.

So off we went, heading down towards the harbor in search of the rental office. Easier said than done – it’s not exactly obvious where it is, since the desk is tucked away inside the main ferry terminal, the same building where passenger boats depart for La Gomera, El Hierro, and La Palma. Of course, it makes perfect sense to place a rental office there, ready for travelers arriving from the neighboring islands who need a car on Tenerife. But in our case, it felt a bit backwards – we were already staying on the island, in an apartment a short walk away, and simply showed up on foot like locals trying to crack the code. 🚶‍♂️🚶‍♀️

We eventually tracked down the rental office hidden inside the ferry terminal. Not much of a car selection on display, but luckily they promised one would be available in half an hour. Perfect timing – our apartment was just a 10-minute walk away, so we strolled back, grabbed a few things, and got ready for what we thought would be just a small first-day outing.

Back at the office, the car had arrived. Success! Our trusty ride for the next four days on Tenerife: a tiny white Fiat 500. Cute, compact, and hopefully forgiving. Fingers crossed we’d get along. 🚗✨

I’ll be honest – driving a car in a foreign country always makes me a little nervous at first. Mostly because you don’t really know the roads, the traffic flow, or the local driving “tempo.” But I have to say, the roads on Tenerife (and Gran Canaria too) are surprisingly good. At least the main highways are well-maintained and the lane markings are so clear it feels like they were painted yesterday.

Back home in Sweden, it’s a different story. Our climate swings from freezing winters to hot summers, and the asphalt just can’t handle the abuse – potholes everywhere. And don’t even get me started on the road authority… they seem to start a thousand projects but never actually finish any. Meanwhile, you’re left dodging craters big enough to swallow a small Fiat 500 whole. 🚧😂

With the keys finally in hand and plans for just a “small trip” in mind, we spotted our new ride waiting for us in the parking lot. Excited to get going, we jumped straight into the oven-hot car that had been baking in the sun. That’s when the fun began. First, figuring out how to actually start the thing – every brand seems to have its own secret handshake. Then came the real challenge: driving. Back home I’m used to an automatic, so facing a manual gearbox again after years felt a bit like being thrown into a pop quiz I hadn’t studied for. The car lurched, coughed, and hopped forward in protest while I tried to remember the long-lost art of clutch control.

Erika wasn’t entirely convinced I even had a driver’s license at that point. I may or may not have pressed the wrong pedal once or twice, and let’s just say the clutch wasn’t exactly in its prime either. But after a few embarrassing starts (and some nervous laughter), we were finally rolling – ready or not. 🚗💥😂

We didn’t really have a solid plan for the day – the idea was just to take a short drive and see where the road would lead. A quick glance at Google Maps earlier had given us an easy goal: Los Gigantes sounded like a nice, manageable first-day destination. So, I typed it into the app and handed over the role of navigator to Erika. Always good to have two sets of eyes when you have zero clue about Tenerife’s roads.

The real fun started almost immediately after leaving the harbor. We came across the strangest roundabout I’ve ever seen – basically a small roundabout inside a bigger one. Whoever designed it must’ve been having a good laugh. For me, though, it felt like the first proper test of both nerves and driving skills.

Problem was, I still hadn’t fully mastered the whole gas-and-clutch coordination. The car started bouncing and jerking its way around the circle like it was auditioning for a rodeo, while Erika clutched the door handle and gave me that classic “do you even have a license?” look. Safe to say, confidence was not at an all-time high. 😂

After surviving the rodeo-style roundabout, the ride slowly calmed down and optimism began to creep back in. There were still plenty of roundabouts and exits to navigate, but soon enough we found ourselves cruising along the motorway towards Los Gigantes.

The only issue: we had no idea where exactly to go to actually see the famous cliffs. I had just punched “Los Gigantes” into the app and hoped for the best. Our plan was simple – find the cliffs, be amazed.

After a while, we found ourselves in the town of Los Gigantes, still wondering if we were anywhere near the dramatic views we’d been chasing. We parked the car on a hillside spot and set off on foot, winding our way down through the narrow streets. Then, just like a curtain being pulled back, the view revealed itself. And there they were: Acantilados de Los Gigantes.

The cliffs rose like dark walls straight out of the Atlantic, so tall it almost gave you a stiff neck just trying to take them all in. Behind us stretched the small town with its marina and bars, but honestly, it was hard to focus on anything other than nature’s own skyscrapers towering in the background.

Standing there, seeing the cliffs for the very first time, felt surreal. We were tiny dots in a postcard scene – framed by the sea, the sun, and the stone giants that quite literally explain why this place is called Los Gigantes.

But beyond the dramatic cliffs, the town itself has its own charm. Los Gigantes is small and relaxed, with a friendly harbor, a handful of restaurants where you can sip a cold cerveza, and even a little black-sand beach where the giants loom right over your towel. It’s not a place for shopping sprees or nightlife – instead, it’s all about slowing down, gazing up, and realizing just how small you are in the company of giants. 🌊⛰️

Between rooftops and ocean, the stone giants rise – guardians of Tenerife, etched in shadow and light.

A short video same view

We spent some time wandering around the town of Los Gigantes, but with the sun still high in the sky, it felt like the day had more adventures to offer. Since we were already up on the northern side of Tenerife – and had heard whispers about the beauty of Masca – we figured, how long could it take to get there?

So, back into the car we went, pointing the little Fiat towards the mountains. The road quickly began to twist and turn, becoming narrower and steeper with every bend. Hairpin curves seemed to pop up faster than I could shift gears.

We made a quick stop at a gas station to fill up – the tank had been barely a quarter full when we picked up the car, and this didn’t feel like the place to gamble. Stocked up on fuel, water, and a few road snacks, we pushed onward and upward.

As we climbed higher, the bright sunshine slowly disappeared. Before we knew it, we had driven straight into the clouds. The air turned cooler, the light dimmed, and the road wound ever deeper into the mist. Erika was starting to look a little pale from all the endless curves – and we hadn’t even reached Masca yet.

Our real adventure began on the infamous TF-436. This winding road snakes its way from Santiago del Teide through breathtaking scenery – steep slopes, dramatic cliffs, and views so spectacular you almost forget to breathe. Almost.

The mistake? We hit it right during rush hour, just as the big buses and half the island seemed to be heading home. Not ideal. Erika usually struggles a bit with motion sickness, and after a day full of curves and turns, the descent into Masca didn’t exactly improve matters. Meanwhile, I was still trying to make peace with the car’s manual gearbox. Put simply: it was less a scenic drive, more a horror ride.

After driving for a while, the road suddenly narrowed even more. It felt less like a road and more like a thin ribbon of asphalt clinging to the mountainside. You couldn’t help but wonder: how on earth are two cars supposed to meet here? Not long after, our first oncoming car appeared. Instant panic: “This will never work!” But to our surprise, it did. A little wobble, a little holding our breath—and somehow we made it past. That’s when it clicked: okay, cars are manageable. Before, the idea of meeting even one seemed impossible, but now it felt like a small victory. We did it. We can actually do this!

But then—after the car—came a bus. A bus! There was simply no way. The thing could barely even make the turns itself. Somehow, in what felt like a small miracle, we managed to squeeze past. The bus driver honked at us beforehand—I’m still not sure why. We were already pressed as far into the side as possible, doing everything we could to give space. Yet, against all odds, it worked. We survived the bus

One after another, massive buses appeared around the hairpin bends, forcing us to edge so far out that our wheels were practically off the road. Inch by inch, we crawled downward. Concentration had never been sharper. At one point we even promised each other: “If we make it out of this alive, we’re going out to celebrate tonight.”

And then came the camper van—the true climax of the drive. This time it felt utterly hopeless. We had a line of cars stacked up behind us, the camper van had its own parade trailing after it, and there was simply no room to move. Forward was impossible, backward seemed worse. We were stuck. Game over.

With sweaty palms and a racing heartbeat, we somehow managed to reverse up the mountain again. It felt like playing a stressful game of reverse Tetris on a cliffside. The clutch was screaming, the engine roaring like a jet plane, and the cabin filled with the acrid smell of something burning. At that point, we were convinced the car was about to explode.

And yet—miraculously—we backed up just far enough for the gigantic camper van to scrape by. With only a few centimeters to spare, we edged forward and slipped past. Honestly, it doesn’t get any closer than that. My heart was pounding at 110, and Erika looked about ready to swear off mountain roads forever.

At long last, we made it down to the fairytale village of Masca and managed to squeeze our little Fiat into one of the very last parking spots. It finally felt like things were going our way again.

Here is a picture taken from our view from the car.

The road to Masca is as thrilling as it is beautiful. Curve after curve, the village slowly appears—tucked deep between towering cliffs, almost hidden from the world. A secret place for those daring enough to take on the descent.

Spectacular as the landscape is, my advice is this: be smart about how you get there. Tackling this route on your very first day behind the wheel of a new rental car, in a foreign country, with heavy bus traffic and a stubborn clutch, isn’t exactly a recipe for relaxation. If anyone in your car is prone to motion sickness, you might want to avoid this road altogether—the endless twists and turns are merciless. If you want to enjoy Masca without the stress (or the palpitations), book a guided tour and let someone else handle the white-knuckle driving. 😅

But enough about the road—let’s talk about Masca itself, because this village is something truly special.

Masca is no ordinary village. Perched at around 650 meters above sea level in the rugged Teno Mountains, it looks and feels like something out of a fairytale. The narrow, sloping streets wind between traditional stone houses that cling to the mountainside, each one with a view more dramatic than the last.

What makes Masca even more fascinating is its history. For centuries, the village was almost completely cut off from the rest of Tenerife. Surrounded by deep ravines and towering cliffs, it could only be reached by footpaths and mule tracks. Until the 1960s, when the winding road was finally built, life here moved slowly and in isolation. Villagers lived off the land, herding goats, farming the terraces, and relying on their own resources. Some legends even claim that pirates once used the ravines around Masca as a hideout, vanishing into the cliffs when danger approached from the sea.

Today, Masca has found its place on the map, but it hasn’t lost its charm. The sense of remoteness lingers, and walking through the village feels like stepping back in time. Small cafés and family-run restaurants invite you in for a refreshing drink or a plate of Canarian specialties, often served with unbeatable mountain views. Hikers flock here to tackle the famous Masca Gorge trail—a demanding but unforgettable descent through the ravine all the way to the ocean.

Whether you come for the scenery, the history, or just to soak up the atmosphere, Masca will leave its mark. It’s the kind of place where you pause, look around, and wonder how such a tiny village could hold so much magic.

Here is a short video that we cut together from the fantastic view we had in Masca.

Good question! Here are a few tips we’ve put together for your visit:

This is the activity Masca is famous for. The trail snakes down from the village all the way to the ocean, taking about 3–4 hours one way. The towering cliffs make you feel like a tiny adventurer walking through a giant movie set. But you need to bring sturdy shoes, plenty of water, and some snacks. Also, check ahead if the trail is open—it sometimes closes for safety or maintenance

Masca itself is postcard-perfect. Think cobblestone paths, little houses with red-tiled roofs, cacti, and flowers spilling out everywhere. Perfect for a slow stroll and, of course, a few photos.

Stop at one of the rustic restaurants with a terrace view and order some Canarian classics. Don’t miss papas arrugadas (the famous wrinkled potatoes with mojo sauce) paired with a cold cerveza. Trust us, food just tastes better with those epic views.

Stick around until late afternoon and you’ll be rewarded with golden light painting the cliffs. It feels like a scene straight out of a fantasy movie.

For the ultimate adventure, hike down the gorge and then take a boat out from the beach near Los Gigantes (when the trail is open). With a bit of luck, you’ll spot dolphins or even whales along the way.

Walk along the Masca Gorge, one of Tenerife’s most famous hiking routes

After winding our way down the dizzying serpentines towards Masca and finally finding a place to park, we strolled straight to the small village square. And there it was – the great tree of Masca. Its enormous roots grip the ground like an ancient guardian, and its wide branches stretch out, casting shade across the cobblestones. Standing proudly beside the tiny church, this ficus feels less like a plant and more like the village’s living heart. Locals rest beneath it, hikers gather around it before tackling the ravine trail – and for us, it was the perfect welcome to this hidden mountain gem.

The great tree of Masca

At this point, I was desperately looking for a bathroom (already since Los Gigantes, if I’m honest), so I dashed off to the restaurant by the square. Bad timing – they were just closing and sweeping the floor. Meanwhile, Erika was still feeling queasy after the winding drive, so we weren’t quite ready to soak in Masca’s beauty just yet.

We headed down a steep stone path – calling it a “stairway” would be generous. Erika braved it in beach sandals (not exactly ideal hiking gear), and we carefully made our way down to where the terrain leveled out. Thankfully, there was a railing to hold onto. From there, Masca revealed itself: a tiny cluster of houses clinging to the cliffs, surrounded by views that truly take your breath away.

Stone by Stone, Into Masca’s Heart

The village itself is tiny – around 90–100 residents and maybe 50 houses in total. There are only a handful of restaurants (three or four at most), and when we arrived, almost all were closed except for a little all-in-one shop, bar, and café. Packed to the brim, so we decided to wander further into the village.

The charm of Masca is undeniable. You can’t help but wonder how people reached this place before the road was built – most likely along rocky goat paths, or perhaps from the sea below. Many modern roads follow old trails, so perhaps the route to Masca has always been a path carved by determined feet.

At the far end of the village, we stumbled upon the lookout point. From there, the view was jaw-dropping – sheer cliffs, jagged ridges, and the dramatic gorge plunging towards the Atlantic. This is where many hikers begin the famous trek down to the sea. The trail usually starts by the big tree on the square and continues just below the church. Since 2018, the Barranco de Masca trail has been closed on and off for safety work, and nowadays hikers need to book a permit in advance to do the full descent and return.

Masca – Gazing Into Tenerife’s Wild Hear

Eventually, I had to answer nature’s call (with no open bathrooms in sight, the wilderness had to do). Relieved, both literally and figuratively, we could finally enjoy the scenery at ease.

By the time we climbed back up to the small shop-restaurant, the crowds had thinned. We snagged a table, ordered two Americanos and some homemade pastries, and – after convincing the owner to let me pay by card despite spotty coverage – we sat back and savored the moment. A simple coffee never tasted so good.

The little bar, cafeteria and shop - Coffee, Cake & Mountain Air

Our moods lifted, we lingered a while longer, breathing in the mountain air, before heading back towards our beloved Los Cristianos – already talking about how we’d celebrate this little adventure when we got back.

After surviving the hair-raising curves of Masca’s winding roads and soaking up the charm of the tiny village with its dramatic mountain scenery, it was finally time to head back home. But the thought lingered in the back of our minds: “What if the drive back turns into the same nerve-wracking adventure?”

Instead of spiraling into worry, we decided to crank up the good vibes. CarPlay was plugged in, Spotify set the mood, and with the volume turned all the way up, our spirits instantly lifted. Suddenly, we were singing along like the serpentine roads had never happened.

And guess what? The way back was actually smooth sailing. No stressful encounters with oncoming cars, no close calls with the cliff’s edge. To top it off, we lucked out by slipping in behind a bus that practically cleared the path for us as it climbed the mountain—like having our o wn personal road guide on wheels.

Once we reached the top, the rest was a piece of cake. The highway carried us effortlessly back to our beloved Los Cristianos. From white-knuckled steering on the way there to joyful car karaoke on the way home—now that’s the kind of road trip memory Tenerife is made of.

We had already decided earlier in the day that the adventure deserved a little celebration: a nice dinner and perhaps a cocktail or two. So, as the sun began to set, we strolled along the seaside promenade from Los Cristianos towards Playa de las Américas.

That’s when we stumbled upon Kyomu, a sleek-looking Chinese and Japanese restaurant. The place immediately caught our eye—stylish exterior, warm ambiance, and a menu that promised more than just the usual sushi rolls.

It looked a bit on the fancy side, but hey—after conquering Masca’s winding roads, we figured we had earned it. Sometimes you just have to go with your gut and treat yourself, right?

To our surprise, the restaurant wasn’t full. Normally, we guessed you’d have to book a table here, but luck was on our side—we were seated at a lovely little spot without any wait. Moments later, we were handed both the cocktail and dinner menus.

The prices were definitely a notch higher than the average along the promenade, which only confirmed our hunch: Kyomo wasn’t just another beachside eatery, it was a touch more exclusive.

Choosing what to order wasn’t easy—everything looked tempting. After some back-and-forth, we finally decided to go with sushi. The only problem? Figuring out exactly how many pieces each set included. Instead of ending up with either too little or a sushi mountain we couldn’t finish, we played it safe and asked our waiter for clarification.

From Mountain Trails to Sushi Rolls – Dinner at Kyomu

To celebrate the day and all our little adventures, we paired our sushi feast with two very different – but equally irresistible – cocktails.

The Frozen Daiquiri with mango and passionfruit and the Oreo Delight was pure indulgence, a creamy dessert-in-a-glass.

🥭 Frozen Daiquiri (Mango/Passion) – A Tropical Escape

Craving that real holiday feeling? Kyomu’s Frozen Daiquiri with mango and passionfruit has you covered. It’s fresh, tangy, and ice-cold, a tropical flavor explosion with every sip. Garnished with a sprig of mint, it delivers that extra kick of freshness – just what you want on a warm evening in Playa de las Américas. Light, fruity, and oh-so-refreshing – this is the drink that keeps your summer vibes alive long after the sun goes down.

🍪 Oreo Delight – Dessert in a Glass

If dessert and cocktails had a lovechild, it would be the Oreo Delight. This creamy frozen cocktail blends Baileys, a hint of mint liqueur, and smooth vanilla ice cream. To finish it off, it’s crowned with rich chocolate sauce and a whole Oreo cookie. The result? A refreshing yet indulgent treat that’s equal parts dessert and drink. Perfect as a sweet ending to dinner – or simply as a little guilty pleasure on its own.

We left Kyomu full of sushi and cocktails, only to tumble headfirst into the chaos of Playa de las Américas. But hey, some stories are best kept for later!

See You on the Next Journey

And that’s a wrap on our adventure to Masca—the hidden village that clings to the cliffs and steals your breath away with every twist and turn. Thanks for tagging along on this journey through Tenerife’s mountains. We love having you with us, and we can’t wait to share the next adventure. Until then—stay curious, keep exploring, and see you in the next article!