Santa Cruz by Day, Hard Rock by Night: A Tenerife Birthday Story

Birthdays in Tenerife aren’t just days — they’re full-blown adventures. From shopping treasures in Santa Cruz to sushi feasts, café stops, and island nightlife, this one had it all.

• A Birthday Breakfast by the Sea
• How Not to Return a Car in Los Cristianos
• From Panic to Paradise: How We (Barely) Made It to Santa Cruz
• Where’s Lunch? A Birthday Hunt Through Santa Cruz
• Rebajas, Rebajas Everywhere!
• Toilet Trouble, Cake Cravings, and a Creepy Shadow
• The Fast and the Fluffy: Miniso, Malls, and Making the Bus
• When Jamón y Mojo Said No, Tapas Said Sí
• Hard Rock Nights and Birthday Lights

The perfect birthday starts with breakfast — and mine had front-row seats to the Atlantic. From our apartment in Los Cristianos, the view was nothing short of postcard-perfect: golden sand stretching below, the turquoise shimmer of the sea, and the promenade already waking up with early walkers and joggers. I’d made an early dash to Spar Habana, returning like a breakfast champion with armfuls of fresh bread, fruit, cheeses, and other treats. We set the table on the balcony, the sound of the waves as our soundtrack, and indulged in a feast fit for royalty — or at least for someone celebrating another lap around the sun.

This photo wasn’t snapped in the morning, but it shows the incredible view we woke up to every day. Starting the day with the golden light over Los Cristianos and the sea stretching out in front of us was nothing short of magical.

Our big plan for the day was simple: go to Santa Cruz, shop, explore, and soak up the city vibes. Easy, right? Well… first, we had to return the rental car from CICAR. We had parked the car a short distance from the apartment and had been instructed to drop it off at the parking lot down by the harbor and ferry — a process so smooth when picking it up that I thought, This is going to be a breeze to return. The plan was straightforward: park the car, leave the keys, and hop on a bus to Santa Cruz.

As soon as we rolled into the ferry parking zone, we realized we’d joined a queue of cars that wasn’t really a queue at all… it was a standstill. We kept muttering, “Why don’t they just drive in? How hard can it be?” Minutes ticked by, nobody moved, and with every honk and sigh our stress levels crept higher. Santa Cruz felt further away with each passing second.

Eventually — after a painfully long thirty minutes — the truth dawned on us: a car had to leave before another could enter. Obvious, sure — but in our defense, we were clueless tourists caught in the moment. After another 15 painfully long minutes, we finally surrendered and gave up. Frustrated and running out of time, we ditched the original plan. Instead, we decided to pull up right outside the entrance where the car rental office is located, the same spot shared with the ferry terminal. We’d parked there before when picking up the car, so surely we could just leave it in the exact same place. Easy-peasy, we thought. What could possibly go wrong?

We parked the car right outside, in the same spot where we had picked it up on the very first day. Feeling relieved, we walked into the car rental office and explained the situation to the staff member: the parking lot they’d instructed us to use was jammed solid, the line hadn’t moved in ages, and honestly, we had better things to do on my birthday than sit in a car queue just to return a car. He didn’t seem entirely convinced. Apparently, leaving the car there could mean a parking fine — and from the way he explained it, we would be the ones paying. In my head I thought, Well, you could just move it yourselves, couldn’t you? But no, he was insistent: I had to re-park it. Not exactly the best customer service moment of the trip. With a quick wave at a map, he pointed out where to leave it instead.

I studied the map carefully — how hard could this be? Jumping back into the car, I drove to where I thought the spot was. But as I pulled in, I noticed a sign: parking only for damaged vehicles awaiting repair. Given the earlier conversation about fines, this didn’t feel like the best place to test my luck. Looking around, I spotted plenty of empty parking bays. Most were technically reserved for buses, but they were wide open and begging to be used. Why not? I thought. So I slipped the car into one, patted the steering wheel like a job well done, and marched back to car rental office, feeling victorious. Santa Cruz was finally within reach.

To strengthen my case, I even snapped a photo of the car where I’d parked it — a row of perfectly empty spots that, okay fine, clearly looked like bus parking. But still… it was empty, right? Proudly, I showed the picture to the office guy as if I had uncovered the perfect solution.

And there it was — our trusty little Fiat 500. Small, nimble, and cute. Lovely car, but the clutch moved slower than a sunbathing turtle.

Marching back into the office with the confidence of someone who had just solved a major logistical puzzle, I proudly told the CICAR guy that the car was now parked. Problem solved, right? Not exactly. The look on his face said it all — a mix between disbelief and mild horror. Parking in the bus bays was apparently not part of the plan. With a sigh, he pointed back at the map, giving me that polite-but-firm “try again” smile. Our Santa Cruz adventure was still on hold.

So we made one last attempt. This time, we obediently parked the Fiat in the “damaged cars” queue just as instructed. Back to the office we went, nodding like model customers and simply saying the car was exactly where he wanted it. Keys handed over — finally!

But now came the real race: the next bus to Santa Cruz was leaving in just 15 minutes, and if we missed it, the whole plan for the day would collapse. With the car finally handed over, we bolted out of the office and straight into Phase Two — finding the bus. The problem? We had never been in that part of Los Cristianos before, had no idea where the bus stop was, and the clock was ticking. Armed with Google Maps in one hand and a rising sense of panic in the other, we dashed through the streets like contestants on The Amazing Race.

We sprinted through streets and across squares, weaving between café tables and surprised pedestrians. My optimism had completely vanished, but my daughter kept shouting, “We’ll make it, Dad!” After all, what else were we going to do on my birthday? I had pictured the perfect day in Santa Cruz, not a marathon through Los Cristianos.

Breathless and with hearts pounding, we finally reached the bus stop — a little late. The street was empty. No bus in sight. So that’s it, I thought. It’s already gone.

Exhausted, we slumped down on a bench at the bus stop. So, that’s it then. Happy birthday to me… now what? One last glance at Google Maps, just to be sure, and there it was: the bus was running late. For once, lateness was on our side. Woho! Maybe there was still hope for a Santa Cruz adventure after all.

And believe it or not — the bus actually arrived. People lined up neatly, no chaos, no pushing, just quiet order. We climbed aboard with the excitement of kids heading into Sherwood Forest. Off we went!

The ride from Los Cristianos to Santa Cruz took about an hour and turned out to be super smooth. Honestly, it was a relief not having to wrestle with a worn-out automatic in a busy foreign city. Driving in Spain can be fine — many drivers are courteous, especially at crosswalks (unlike in Sweden, where the car is king and pedestrians beware!). But then you have the others: night bus drivers with the soul of retired rally racers, and some taxi drivers who seem to think they’re auditioning for Formula 1 :-).

By now, though, hunger was catching up with us. The whole parking fiasco had delayed us, and this bus was much later than I’d planned. Stomachs growled in chorus as we neared the city. When Santa Cruz finally came into view, we made a quick decision: instead of staying on until the last stop, we’d hop off at the big shopping mall. Judging by the crowd pressing the stop button, it seemed like a popular choice anyway.

By the time we arrived in Santa Cruz we were absolutely starving, and shopping on an empty stomach was not an option. It was my birthday after all, so grabbing a quick baguette or a slice of cake at a café didn’t feel worthy of the occasion. I wanted a proper lunch — something with a little flair. After all, we were in the capital city! But, surprisingly, finding the right spot wasn’t as easy as you might think in a big city. We scrolled through TripAdvisor, convinced that if we headed closer to the sea, something would pop up. On the way we passed outside the Nivaria Center shopping mall and strolled through the Mercado Nuestra Señora de África. The bustling market, dating back to the 1940s, was packed with stalls of fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, and seafood — fascinating to see, but not quite the cozy restaurant we had in mind.

Our walk took us across the Barranco de Santos, a dried-out riverbed with a bridge that seemed to funnel everyone in the same direction. It felt like we were heading straight toward the heart of the action — surely a good sign for restaurants and shopping streets. Soon enough, we found ourselves at a crossroads of temptation: on one side, La Mafia se sienta a la mesa, a lively Italian spot, and on the other, Fusiyama, a sleek-looking Japanese restaurant. Both looked great. I was leaning Italian at first, but the terrace was already packed. The Japanese place, on the other hand, looked fresh and inviting — though strangely quiet. Still, outdoor seating was free, so that’s where we landed.

A young waitress came over, happy to serve us drinks but apparently not allowed to take food orders. So we sat, sipping away, hydrating like marathon runners after the long walk. Honestly, we almost gave up and left, but by then we’d ordered so much to drink it would’ve felt like a crime to abandon ship. At last, a Japanese gentleman arrived — clearly the real deal when it came to food orders. We explained that we didn’t just want to order the same rolls over and over, but rather a good mix — something varied and exciting, maybe even the chef’s choice. He hesitated, then mentioned a Fusiyama Special Mix. The catch? It was a lot of sushi, maybe too much for just the two of us. Luckily, he adjusted it and trimmed it down — we settled on 20 pieces, a perfect birthday-sized feast. Pricey? Sure. But hey, it was my birthday, and birthdays are the perfect excuse to splurge on sushi.

The presentation alone was a work of art. A carved wooden ship arrived at our table, complete with a tiny rower and what looked like a flute-playing passenger, with rows of sushi sailing alongside them. It was almost too beautiful to eat — almost.

Each piece looked handcrafted with care, like edible jewels. I couldn’t name all the varieties, but the ones topped with tiny popping pearls quickly became my favorite — they burst with flavor like little fireworks in the mouth. Honestly, it was the best sushi I’ve ever had. Full marks to the chef! Definitely worth recommending, even if it came with a slightly higher price tag.

We ate, and oh wow — we were beyond satisfied. It felt so good that we hadn’t just gone for something quick and simple. Suddenly, the birthday vibes were back on track, and everything felt brighter (thank you, sushi gods).

The next mission came from my daughter: she wanted to buy me a really nice shirt right there in the city. So off we went, strolling along the main shopping street lined with clothing stores. What caught our eye immediately were the signs — “Rebajas” everywhere. Apparently, it means “sale.” Funny thing though: could everything really be on sale? Clothes, shoes, accessories… it seemed like the whole city had gone into permanent discount mode.

At last, we stumbled upon a shop with the perfect find — a really cool shirt that instantly caught both our eyes. My daughter decided it would be my birthday present, and honestly, it couldn’t have been better. I was already planning to wear it that evening when we went out. Perfect timing, perfect gift.

Santa Cruz has no shortage of brand-name stores, so if you’re hunting for quality clothes, shoes, or accessories, we can definitely recommend a stroll along its main shopping street.

After some shopping and plenty of window-browsing, hunger and thirst began to catch up with us — especially for my daughter. And, of course, that’s exactly when we realized we also needed a toilet. We really should have gone back at the sushi place… but it’s always easier to be clever afterwards.

After some wandering, we ended up at a small square — Fuente Plaza Weyler. A charming plaza with a a café/restaurant just next to it, the perfect spot for a short break. And believe it or not, there it was: a public toilet. Jackpot! Normally, public restrooms aren’t exactly a highlight, but when nature calls, you don’t argue.

The little red light above the door told us it was occupied, so we waited patiently. That’s when a shadow appeared behind us. Out of nowhere, a man materialized — someone who looked like he either worked there or just really wanted people to think he did. Let’s just say he gave off some pretty strange vibes, as if he’d had more than just sunshine that day.

He started rambling about how we needed to wait our turn (which, obviously, we already were). His words tumbled out in a language that might have been Spanish at some point… or maybe just his own personal dialect. Either way, it was impossible to follow, and we just nodded along, hoping he’d eventually lose interest. He then moved on to what we eventually understood was his grand explanation of the little sign with the toilet rules. According to him, it was written in three languages — Spanish, German, and English. Not exactly hard to spot, since there were three big flags right next to the text, each matching the language. Still, he went on in his own incomprehensible tongue, gesturing at the sign as if he were revealing some hidden truth. The whole scene was so over the top that we could barely hold back our laughter.

We lingered there for a while, but nothing happened — the light stayed red, the door stayed closed, and our strange “toilet guide” showed no sign of leaving. Deciding we’d had enough of his company, we slipped away and went in search of a café instead. Somewhere with a toilet, hopefully, but also somewhere with cake. Because if it’s your birthday, you simply must have a slice of cake or at least something sweet. We didn’t have to wander far before spotting a café that ticked all the boxes: cake and a toilet. Panadería Granier Weyler, right by the park, felt like the perfect choice.

Inside, it looked as if half the Santa Cruz police force had gathered for their coffee break. Comforting, we thought — at least if our spooky park-friend showed up again, this was probably the safest café in town. Ordering, however, was an adventure in itself. Neither of the girls behind the counter spoke much English, and in the end I found myself dealing with the one who spoke no English at all — only Spanish. That meant relying on the universal language of finger-pointing, enthusiastically selecting cakes from the display case where rows of treats were neatly lined up, and then adding two Americanos to the order. Coffee, thankfully, needs no translation.

Meanwhile, my daughter rushed off to the restroom. She’d apparently been given the wrong key for the men’s door, but a friendly police officer quickly stepped in to sort it out. Not the kind of police work you read about in the news, but highly appreciated all the same. Finally, we sat down with our coffee and cake, ready to relax.

But just when we thought the day’s weird encounters were behind us, who should walk in but our mysterious “spooky” man from the park. For a moment, we genuinely thought he had followed us all the way here. He started rambling again in his own private language, adding to the creepiness of it all.

The police officers barely even noticed him — which at first struck us as strange, but maybe not so strange after all. These weren’t your average beat cops either; a couple of them looked seriously tough, one with tattoos running down his arms and a massive revolver at his side. Definitely not the kind of guys you’d want to argue with over a slice of cake. One of them gave the man a casual wave of the hand and a few sharp words — and just like that, he shuffled out. Clearly, this wasn’t his first act at Granier. Judging by how casually the police handled it, he was probably on the menu more often than the croissants.

After finishing our coffee and cake, we decided to skip the small window-shopping strolls and head straight for the bigger stuff — well-known brand stores and one of the larger shopping centers in Santa Cruz. The plan was to head back in the direction we’d originally come from and check out one of the larger malls in the area.

On our way back, we crossed paths with a few trams and made our way once again over the Barranco de Santos ravine, this time with the bigger shopping centers in sight. Eventually, we found ourselves back at the Nivaria Center — a place we had only passed by earlier in the day. The moment we walked inside, my daughter’s radar locked on to Miniso. This little store is like a happiness machine: bright lights, cheerful colors, and shelves packed so neatly you almost don’t want to touch anything — but of course, you can’t resist. While it may look like it’s aimed at kids, there’s plenty for adults too: quirky home gadgets, cute stationery, beauty products, tech accessories, and plush toys that practically beg you to adopt them.

For Erika, it was heaven. She’s a big fan of Japanese brands like Sanrio — the creators of Hello Kitty — so when she spotted My Melody and Kuromi goodies, she was instantly hooked. Affordable, fun, and irresistibly cute. We both cracked up over the Minecraft toys: square-shaped plush TNT pillows and mugs, perfectly blocky and hilarious. As fans of the game (yes, even I’ve played a fair bit — and we even watched directly the Minecraft movie as soon as we got home), it was impossible not to linger. Then came the Barbie mugs with surprisingly stylish designs, and of course, the Harry Potter corner full of wizardly treasures.

The ultimate temptation, though, was a giant My Melody plush bear Erika had her eyes on (see picture). It was adorable, no doubt — but getting it home? Nearly impossible. With our luggage already flirting with the weight limit on the way down, stuffing in a life-sized bunny was just not in the cards. Sadly, My Melody had to stay behind in Santa Cruz.

Time was starting to slip away, and we realized we had to catch the direct bus back to Los Cristianos. Missing it would mean juggling connections and probably spending half the evening switching buses — definitely not the birthday plan we had in mind. Plus, we wanted to get home in time to relax a little before the night’s adventures.

We strolled briefly through Nivaria Center, which is packed with shops for beauty and fashion, sports gear, tech stores, and even a handful of restaurants. Tempting as it was to sit down somewhere, we decided to skip a meal this time — we were still happily full from the outstanding sushi earlier in the day. Better to save our appetites for dinner back in Los Cristianos.

We wrapped up our visit to Nivaria Center a little quicker than planned — time was running out. So once again, we found ourselves running through the streets to catch the bus. And once again, we also just managed to make it — our second close call of the day. By the time we got home, the adventure had taken its toll, so we did what any sensible traveler in Spain would do: took a well-deserved siesta before the evening festivities began.

Before our trip, we had been tipped off about a restaurant called Jamón y Mojo, and my birthday felt like the perfect day to finally try it. A quick check on TripAdvisor confirmed its glowing reviews and high rating — promising signs for a celebratory dinner. Even better, it was located within walking distance of our apartment, tucked away in what we like to call the “real” part of Los Cristianos. Less touristy, more authentic, and filled with the charm of Spanish neighborhood life.

We quickly realized that prices in this part of town were much friendlier compared to the newer areas of Los Cristianos — and especially compared to Playa de las Américas. Don’t get me wrong, Playa has plenty of great restaurants, but your wallet sometimes feels the difference. That’s why we often ended up there in the evenings instead — not necessarily for dinner, but to people-watch, stroll the lively shopping streets, catch some live music, and, of course, enjoy the spectacular sunsets that Playa de las Américas never fails to deliver.

At last, we managed to track down Jamón y Mojo. Victory! Or so we thought. Standing outside, it looked undeniably… closed. Not just “we’re taking a break” closed, but more like “under some kind of renovation” closed.

As you can see in the photo, it looked very closed. A real shame — but hey, that just means we’ll have to save it for our next trip to Tenerife. Always good to have something to come back for (and to finally taste).

So, plan B it was — time to sink our teeth into something new. 🙂

We’d been talking for ages about finding a proper tapas spot, and fate stepped in with Doña Clara. The place was buzzing, and we were lucky enough to grab a free table. Sure, it was a bit cramped and right by the kitchen entrance, but that didn’t matter once the food arrived.

We ordered four tapas dishes that looked just as good as they tasted (see pictures below). Each one was a little masterpiece in its own right:

Gambas al Ajillo The king of Spanish tapas. Sizzling prawns swimming in olive oil, garlic, and a kick of chili, served bubbling hot in a tiny clay pot. Perfect with hunks of crusty bread to mop up every last drop — and yes, we did exactly that.

Pollo con Champiñones Tender chicken and fresh mushrooms sautéed together with garlic, olive oil, and that little splash of white wine that makes everything taste better. Rustic, comforting, and the kind of dish that makes you feel at home even far from it.

Queso con Jamón Serrano Sometimes the simplest things are the best. Slices of rich, cured Jamón Serrano paired with wedges of Spanish cheese like Manchego. Salty, nutty, and oh-so-satisfying — Spain on a plate.

Gambas Rebozadas And because one shrimp dish is never enough, we also had these golden, crispy battered prawns. Crunchy outside, juicy inside, with aioli and a squeeze of lemon on top. The kind of tapa you reach for even when you’re already full.

So, what was our verdict? A big thumbs-up from both of us. 👍 The tapas were delicious, full of flavor and variety, and our waiter couldn’t have been friendlier. In the end, it turned into one of those happy accidents — when the “backup plan” turns out to be exactly the right choice.

By the end, it was nearly impossible to take another bite. We polished off almost everything — at least three plates total were cleared completely. A little was left behind, but honestly, there was just no room left.

In the photo you can spot me proudly wearing my brand-new birthday shirt, the one my daughter picked out for me earlier that day. I have to say — it looks pretty sharp, don’t you think?

After our tapas adventure and a quick recharge, we weren’t quite ready to call it a night. So we made our way over to Playa de las Américas, the perfect spot for a birthday finale. Neon lights, lively streets, and the unmistakable buzz of nightlife greeted us as we strolled through.

Of course, we couldn’t resist a stop at the Hard Rock Café. With its iconic guitar-lit façade and music spilling out into the night, it was the ideal place to toast the end of a long but unforgettable day. Drinks in hand, music in our ears, and the Atlantic breeze still in the air — it was the perfect closing act to a birthday full of shopping, sprints, surprises, and plenty of laughs.

We can definitely recommend a visit to the Hard Rock Café in Playa de las Américas — it turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip. The building itself is impossible to miss, with its glowing guitar façade and grand, temple-like columns right on the Golden Mile. Inside, you’ll find everything you’d expect from Hard Rock: big, juicy burgers, sizzling fajitas, ribs that fall off the bone, and cocktails that know how to pack a punch. The portions are huge, so come hungry. Add to that the walls lined with rock memorabilia — guitars, costumes, and collectibles from legends — and you feel like you’re dining in a mini music museum.

But the real magic happens on the terrace. Every night between 7 p.m. and 11 p.m., live music takes over. Early in the week, most shows run from 7–9 p.m., while on weekends things kick off later, around 9–11 p.m. Sometimes it’s a solo artist, sometimes a full band, but always with great energy. If you stay more than a week, you’ll notice some acts return, which is a treat because you get to enjoy your favorites twice.

For us, the vibe was electric. The music was loud, the crowd buzzing, and with another round of drinks in hand, the birthday flag was flying high. It was the perfect way to wrap up a day already full of shopping, sprints, surprises — and plenty of laughs.

Birthday vibes at the Hard Rock Café terrace 🎸✨ Drinks, music, and the best company — father & daughter duo enjoying the night in Playa de las Américas.

Thank you for following along on this unforgettable birthday adventure in Tenerife — from morning views and sushi feasts to shopping sprees, tapas surprises, and rocking out at Hard Rock Café. What a day, what a night. And thank you for reading this article — see you on the next adventure! 🌴✨🎸